| 1 |
Confirm the pipe type and size |
Identify the drain pipe material and nominal size before selecting the toilet flange. Residential toilet waste lines are commonly 3 in (76 mm) or 4 in (102 mm) nominal pipe sizes. |
The flange opening, pipe connection, and sealing method must be compatible with the existing sewer pipe. |
| 2 |
Expose the sewer pipe opening |
Remove the old flange, damaged seal, flooring debris, and loose material. Expose enough sound pipe or fitting to create a clean connection without disturbing the drain line. |
Do not cut into the pipe until its route and condition are confirmed. Replace cracked, crushed, or heavily corroded sections. |
| 3 |
Set the finished-floor reference |
Measure from the top of the finished floor, including tile or other final flooring. The flange must be positioned to match the finished floor level rather than the unfinished subfloor. |
A large height difference can prevent the toilet from sealing correctly and may require an approved extension or repair method. |
| 4 |
Center the flange |
Place the flange over the sewer pipe and align its outlet with the pipe opening. Keep the flange centered under the toilet outlet and oriented so the mounting slots can receive the closet bolts. |
The toilet should sit fully on the flange without the bowl or bolts contacting the wall, cabinet, or other obstruction. |
| 5 |
Check wall clearance |
Use the toilet manufacturer’s rough-in measurement to locate the flange from the finished wall. A common residential rough-in is approximately 12 in (305 mm), but the actual fixture specification controls. |
Measure from the finished wall, not just the wall framing. Account for baseboard thickness and any wall covering. |
| 6 |
Prepare the pipe surface |
Cut the pipe square when necessary, then remove burrs and clean the outside or inside connection surface according to the selected flange type. Keep dust and moisture away from solvent-weld or gasketed joints. |
The pipe end must be smooth, round, clean, and free from damage that could prevent a watertight seal. |
| 7 |
Dry-fit before fastening |
Install the flange without permanent adhesive or final fasteners first. Rotate and reposition it until the pipe, bolt slots, wall clearance, and finished-floor height are correct. |
The flange should lie flat and remain stable. Correct alignment now is easier than repairing a sealed or fastened joint later. |
| 8 |
Secure to solid support |
Fasten the flange through its mounting holes into the subfloor or another approved structural support. Use corrosion-resistant fasteners suitable for the flooring and flange material. |
Fasteners should be evenly distributed and tight enough to prevent movement without cracking the flange or damaging the floor. |
| 9 |
Complete the pipe connection |
Apply the connection method specified for the flange and pipe, such as a compatible gasketed joint or solvent-weld connection. Follow the required surface preparation and curing time. |
Do not move, load, or test a solvent-welded joint until the cement manufacturer’s stated cure time has been met. |
| 10 |
Verify the opening and level |
Place a level across the flange and inspect the full opening for obstruction. Confirm that the closet-bolt slots remain accessible and that the flange is not tilted or twisted. |
The flange must be rigid, properly aligned, and free of debris before installing the wax or elastomeric toilet seal. |
| 11 |
Perform a drainage check |
Run an appropriate amount of water through the drain system, if accessible, and inspect the connection for movement or leakage before setting the toilet. |
Any leak, odor, shifting flange, or visible gap must be corrected before the toilet is installed. |
| 12 |
Prepare for toilet installation |
Install the closet bolts in the aligned slots and place the selected toilet seal according to its instructions. Keep the bowl level during placement and tighten the nuts gradually. |
Avoid overtightening, which can crack the porcelain. Trim excess bolt length only after the toilet is stable and leak-free. |